Two Important Messages!

For all of you who have been curious about my progress, I wanted to let you know that I am making absolutely no progress whatsoever. After Thanksgiving, I decided to stay a bit longer with my folks to let my toe heal up. After a two weeks of no hiking, I figured all would be well (or at least somewhat better). So after much anticipation, I took a trial walk in new shoes and without a pack a day ago. It did not feel good.

So.

I decided to stay on and take a few more weeks off. I'm bummed about this injury, but this time off will allow me to regroup and hit the trail with a fresh start post-Christmas.

That was the first thing. The second is a bit more peculiar.

It seems I've been hacked! My Twitter account has not been hacked, but the rerouting to my blog has hit an unusual bump in the road. Please DISREGARD ANY UNUSUAL TWEETS on this blog as well as all their included links, as they will likely not be a good thing for you and your computers. I have just deleted and reposted the gadget that allows me to reroute my Twitter updates, so it's momentarily back to normal. However, it seems likely that I will simply be hacked again until Google/Blogger figures out protection against it. Until then, beware!

Stay tuned and stay virus-free!

Faces of Texas

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. . ."We'll just turn you over to the Lord. He'll take care of you."
- John Hodkinson's parting words to me as he and spouse JoAn dropped me off outside of Henderson, where they had picked me up. I stayed with John, JoAn, and their grandson James for two days and three nights. I first met the Hodkinsons in Corpus Christi when we went to the same church together. I was 1.
Henderson, TX
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"That place is half the house I grew up in."
- Richard Hollingsworth, describing his childhood home in Fort Worth which was a few doors down from where my father grew up. When their street was widened by the city, Richard's father took a chainsaw to the home, literally cutting it in half. He sold half to a friend, and the family lived in the rest. My father's friend for over 65 years, Richard invited me to stay with him for a few days.
Longview, TX
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"I get to meet the most fascinating people. Everybody has a story that's worth telling. [My work] clues you in on how we're all connected [and] I like finding that connection."
- Cass County Life Interviewer Michelle Williams after spending an hour chatting with me about my hike. Michelle was the best person to that day, and when I started asking her about her work, she was vibrant, passionate, articulate. It was a real pleasure talking with her.
Queen City, TX
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"We're guys. That's what we do."
- Couchsurfing Host Michael Boyd, pictured with girlfriend Alicia, commenting on my story of making a bad mistake in a relationship. Michael was an amazing host and let me surf his couch for three days. Later on after making the above comment, Michael was sent to the grocery store with a detailed list Alicia made which consisted of two items. Michael picked up one, then checked out the movie rack, subsequently forgetting about the second item. He had to make a second trip to the store.
Texarkana, TX
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"I know she's too good for me. That's my one redemption. The fact that I know."
- "Clipper" Smith on his wife Claire. For five years, Clipper worked at the Disney Land in Paris as the stagecoach driver in Buffalo Bill's Wild West Show. That's where he met Claire, a Parisian, and knew he could not live without her. When Clipper next asked her to move from Paris, France to Texarkana, Claire said 'yes.'
Texarkana, TX
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"God knocked on the door three times, and they turned him away. So I wondered 'Is he Jesus?' I didn't want to turn him away just in case."
- Charles Son, right, pictured with friend Max Atchley, on taking in a Finnish traveler some time back. The man was crossing the USA and was looking for a place to camp when he knocked on Charles's door. Instead, Charles and his wife gave him a dinner, breakfast, and warm bed in between.
Shell Station on Highway 82, west of New Boston, TX
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"I used to do it all the time, and that was the only time I felt uncomfortable."
- Jackie Hazelwood on offering rides to hitchhikers. I met Jackie at the post office in DeKalb, and though I don't take rides along the perimeter (I do to leave the perimeter, of course), Jackie was reminded of a sketchy ride she gave a man several years ago. The man contradicted himself in the course of asking to be dropped off in a certain location, and after leaving him somewhere else, Jackie thought she probably shouldn't give rides anymore.
DeKalb, TX
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"Around here, if it snows, everything shuts down."
- Paris News Reporter Krista Goerte on the local response to winter weather. After the interview, Krista and I chatted about North Texas weather and what I'm going to do in the Panhandle.
Paris, TX
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"I think I got reincarnated this life just to have a good time."
- Jeffrey Varnado, owner of The Book Center, on why he's here. As I was leaving Paris, I stumbled upon Jeffrey's store. Books and magazines were everywhere, but Jeffrey is still slowly getting the store together. We had a great conversation. At the end of it, I traded him a Toni Morrison book for Susanna Clarke's Jonathan Strange & Mr Norrell.
Paris, TX
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"We sacrificed so much to come here. I try to tell the boys,
'Do you realize how much we've given up?'
And they're like, 'Uh... are you going to make something for lunch?'"
- Liza Smith (not pictured) on her and her husband Norm's decision to move from Tucson, AZ to Direct, TX. While we talked, the boys (from left to right: Joel, Joshua, Reuben, and Zachary) played in the dirt and mud.
Direct, TX
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Days Forty-Eight through Eighty-Five

(My apologies for not putting this up sooner.)

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Over a month has gone by, as well as a few hundred miles and the ushering in of the beginnings of winter, since I last posted my mile count and journal entries. Miles, miles, miles. There are so many of them, and this state seems especially loaded.

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I'm not even sure exactly what I've walked. I try not to concern myself too much with the overall mileage so as not to lose a general daily awareness. Thus this exercise is just as enlightening for me as it is for you.

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Here are the stats: day, destination arrived at, and approximate distance walked. Enjoy!

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Day 48: Somewhere along Hwy 87 north of Newton, about 7 miles

Day 49: Near intersection of Hwy 87 & R255, about 14 miles

Day 50: Hemphill, about 24 miles

Day 51: A zero day in Lufkin

Day 52: Somewhere along Hwy 87 past Milam, about 10 miles

Day 53: Near Shelbyville, about 24 miles

Day 54: Near Center Airport, about 12 miles

Day 55: Texas-Louisiana border on Hwy 31, about 21 miles

Day 56: Galloway, about 2 miles

Day 57: Somewhere along US Hwy 79 (via De Berry & toward Carthage), about 30 miles

Day 58: Intersection of Co 336 & US Hwy 79 (toward Henderson), about 26 miles

Days 59-60: Two zero days in Henderson

Day 61: Martin Creek Lake State Recreation Area, about 15 miles

Day 62: Longview, about 16 miles

Days 63-64: Two zero days in Longview

Day 65: Hallsville, about 11 miles

Day 66: Beyond Marshall on Hwy 43, about 15 miles

Day 67: Caddo Lake State Park, about 15 miles

Day 68: Near Smithland, about 10 miles

Day 69: Queen City, about 25 miles

Day 70: Texarkana, about 23 miles

Days 71-73: Three zero days in Texarkana

Day 74: Hooks, about 15 miles

Day 75: New Boston, about 7 miles

Day 76: Outside De Kalb on US Hwy 82, about 10 miles

Day 77: Oak Grove, about 5 miles

Day 78: Beyond Avery on US Hwy 82, about 8 miles

Day 79: Beyond Clarksville on US Hwy 82, about 16 miles

Day 80: Somewhere on US Hwy 82, about 10 miles

Day 81: Reno, about 15 miles

Day 82: Paris, about 12 miles (6 to Paris, then I wandered 6 miles around town)

Day 83: Globe, about 13 miles

Day 84: Beyond Direct, about 12 miles

Day 85: Intersection of Farm to Market Rd 1396 and 273, about 25 miles

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Interspersed among the photos are a few journal entries from these days. I remind you that each is a snapshot of this trip, something from that particular day, and not necessarily a unchanging perception, feeling, or thought. Enjoy!

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Day 53: If anyone can get anything out of this project, I hope that it's to try to realize a dream. This was my crazy dream, and I'm doing it. It's not what I thought, at least not yet, but I'm doing it. I could fail to complete it, but that's ok. Failure is somthing to be proud of; it means you had the guts to try.

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Two Mushrooms, Sabine County, Day 54

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Day 55: (not a journal entry) On this day I stumbled upon an original survey marker, placed in 1841, separating the newly formed Republic of Texas and the United States of America. It was placed at the south end of Hwy 31 where it runs into Louisiana and, a few miles later, Logansport. I have not added a picture or much text because I've submitted an article and photo to the Corpus Christi Caller-Times. Out of respect of my agreement with them, I'll hold off using some of my extraneous materials. But let me tell you this: it was a little vertical block of granite, nothing too special, but the initials R.T. were something incredibly powerful to behold.

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Logger for Hire, Sabine County, Day 57

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Day 57: It was a real pleasure chatting with David [the biker from Irving] today. I'm relieved I'm not so alone in this endeavor. We spoke on a wide variety of subjects, but the common theme was "Why aren't more people out enjoying this world?"

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Cloud Makers (near Martin Creek Lake State Recreation Area), Rusk County, Day 65

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Caddo Lake State Park, Harrison County, Day 67

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(A short Day 67 pre-thought here: I tweeted about a woman who had given her son free reign to shoot me if I did anything "funny." The scene of this tweet happened like this: I stopped on a hill near the road across the street from this woman's five-acre plot and home. I made myself comfortable, drinking water, reading, etc. I see the family members talking on the porch of the house, and eventually the woman comes out to talk with me. Aside from the initial distrust, she was quite nice. She told me how her family had been the victims of a lot of theft, that the neighborhood had gone to pot, that times were really tough. She said that it was "a black area." I left more nervous than I had arrived, but it wasn't from the gun.)

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Day 67: As bad as people say these places are, I have not encountered a negative element yet. There is [racial] tension, but I feel outside of it. And I've seen many exceptions too. Hard to know what to think. I've found people using "black" like it's a bad thing. "Oh, that's a black area" or "That's a black neighborhood." They confuse things known to increase crime (drugs, unemployment) with skin color. For this period of time, they may be right, but should things ever shift the blight on the word "black" will be difficult to recover from.

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Muddy Conditions? (Caddo Lake), Harrison County, Day 67

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No Parking, Marion County, Day 68
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Day 68: These convenience store ladies have seen it all. Truckers, druggies, locals, drunks, cowboys, farmers, rich and poor. Throw me in with my crazy project, and they believe me, no problem. They pepper me with questions and get a kick out of it - for a minute or two. You can pick up a lot from these ladies and from the customers they serve. One guy today took his money out of his sock. He was a huge man, no need at a glance to hide anything, but I'm just passing through. Two ladies at this last place spoke freely of getting robbed by residents and harassed by the police. They wouldn't elaborate on their grievances with the police except for one work-related complaint (couldn't get time off). I wanted to photograph them but was scared to do so. I've adopted their philosophy: Don't put any more stock in your surroundings than you have to. So I don't.

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Trucker Mailbox, Marion County, Day 68
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Day 69: Money is the great normalizer. If I spend a little, usually this breaks the ice and allows people to open up, ask questions, whatever they want. The BBQ restaurant staff [in Atlanta] were so friendly and talkative. The manager (at least I think she was the manager) appreciated the dedication I've applied to the project. "I hope you find what you're looking for," she told me. The other worker admitted she got pregnant in her teens and had been putting off going to school. "After seeing you, I guess I don't have a good reason not to try," she said.

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(Day 70 pre-thought: This was an unusually positive day. My interview with Michelle Williams was wonderful. Then I met a Pakistani couple running a convenience store who were quite nice. Then some workers at the next convenience store were all smiles and questions. Then I made it to Texarkana and Michael Boyd and another interview that Michael had set up. All that fed into my short entry below.)

Day 70: I feel an emotional momentum.

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Hay Bales, Red River County, Day 76

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(Day 76 pre-thought: I was hiking along and saw a car pull up a half block ahead of me and stop. "Oh, boy," I thought. A woman stepped out. As I got closer, I could see she was older with hair as white as the clouds. She was holding something in her hands, hidden by a paper towel. I said 'hi,' and she asked, "Are you hungry?" That's how I met this charming, smiling woman named Neva.)

Day 76: I can't tell you how nice it was to be met on the road by Neva [of Malta]. True, she thought I was a needy, homeless person (guess she was half right). The random kindness she did for me, giving me cornbread, filled me with happiness and love. The bread was good, too; warm, delicious, crumbly, filling, and a little sweet.

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Day 78: Honestly, what am I doing out here? The great adventure is getting easier everyday. Hike, eat, sleep. Even the indignities are easier to take now. Is this about faith? So many people have spoken to me about God that I have ceased being surprised, but I have yet to make any real revelations. What am I doing out here?

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Self-Portrait, Red River County, Day 80

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Top of the Eiffel Tower in Paris, Texas, Lamar County, Day 82

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Impact Area, Lamar County, Day 83

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Pyles Cemetery Angel, Lamar County, Day 83

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(Day 84 pre-story: I walked into Direct, Texas and a few drivers pulled over to chat with me, having seen the Paris News interview. I made it to a little restaurant, and a customer said to me, "Hey! You're not making very good time, are you?!" The all-around cheerfulness was contagious, and I tweeted about it. Then I later heard German (Direct has a big Mennonite community) being spoken, and I tweeted about that. +++ In a different part of town, a woman settled down with the paper from the day before. She read about the interview, then got online for more information. She found my recent tweets and thought, "He's down the street at the restaurant!" She got out the phone book, called the place, and got ahold of me! Her home was on the way out of town, so I stopped by.)

Day 84: What a pleasant encounter! I spoke with Liza and her boys for about two hours (mainly Liza; the boys were busy playing in the mud). She tried to give me new shoes! She did manage to slip me about two pounds of food (tortilla burgers, trail mix, tortillas!). We talked about all kinds of stuff, but once again without effort, God came into the conversation. We also talked about their family, how she and her husband Norm had come to Texas. We talked while watching the kids play, and it was a nice way to spend an afternoon.

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What an unpleasant encounter! A truck pulled up to my camping spot, and I figure the jig is up. I start by saying 'hello?' Nothing. I wait figuring the windows are up. I hear the door open and start up again. "My name is Matt Read. I was just in the Paris newspaper. I met a lot of nice people in Direct." Not a peep, nada. I start to think it's more sinister, but what could I do? I kept talking. Finally, a voice in the dark replied, "Oh, you're talking to me?" Uh, yeah. Turns out he was just hunting first for game sign, then for the game. I watched his flashlight bounce around across the road and down the way. +++ Another truck pulled up! Guy got out, burped loudly. I wasn't in my sleeping bag yet, and it was getting cold. I considered speaking again but didn't. Instead, I tried to get in my bag as quietly as possible. Just as soon as I did, the second fellow jumped in his truck and took off. Guess I scared him!

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Texas Tree Trimming, Fannin County, Day 85

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Day 85: I'm such a fool sometimes. I slept with an insufficient tarp covering to ward off the rain (even though I saw clouds), and my stuff got wet. I call what I did "Lazy Man's Tarp" which means you lie down on one side of the tarp and if it rains you roll up like a burrito. Argh. This time, it was just dumb. I decided to hike double (or try to), so I could get picked up by my aunt and uncle a day earlier. So in addition to a bad night of sleep, I punished my body a second time! My toe hurt a bit, and I felt tenderness in a tendon in my left foot and leg and both big toes. When am I going to learn? Still, I'm in a bed now, and as long as that's the end result, it's going to be really hard to change.

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After spending a nice few days with my aunt, uncle, and grandma, my brother and I drove down to Corpus Christi where we met our parents, another brother, our sister-in-law, and niece. I'll celebrate Thanksgiving here, let my toe recover, and figure out what my next step is at the end of this break.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Until next time, turkey-eaters...

Dear Perimeter Hiker

People ask me things about my endeavor all the time. "Why?" is probably the most frequent question, and I think about what it means and how I would answer it just about every day. The questions I use in these "Dear Perimeter Hiker" installments are pretty close to what was originally asked. I go off the assumption that if one person was curious there might be others equally curious.

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On my way out of Paris, I met a bookstore owner who asked me some pretty tough questions. One is a version of "Why?", and the other is a good all-around question. His are the first and second ones.

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One Foot into Arkansas, Bowie County & Miller County, Day 73

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Dear Perimeter Hiker,

What was your goal before starting your trek and are you accomplishing it?

Gotta Stay Focused

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Dear GSF,

I had a lot of surface goals before starting the trek. In no particular order, they were: to do something never done before, to have an adventure, to see Texas, to meet interesting people, to see different things, to visit places I'd never otherwise visit, and to write about all of the above. I have accomplished these goals and checked them off.

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If all I had were these goals, I might be inclined to quit while I was ahead. Both fortunately and unfortunately, it goes deeper than the above list.

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Just slightly deeper is the notion that I wanted to accomplish something, to start and finish a project that I had created, and that the creation and completion was enough just by itself. As with anything, if a person conceives of an idea and follows through with it, a pattern is created that can then be repeated. Likewise, a person can conceive of some do-able idea and choose not to do anything with it, also creating a pattern and a similar though opposite effect. In my case, I was tired of not doing anything and wanted to reverse that.

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However, there is something underneath all of the above reasons that defies my attempts to explain it. I feel compelled to walk, as if my future relied upon it in ways I have yet to understand. Comprehension is not the goal, though; it's a byproduct of giving myself this time. I'm open to the possibility that I'll never understand the impact of this project on me and my life, only that it was important for me to do.

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Is God Satisfied with Your Life?, Red River County, Day 78

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Dear Perimeter Hiker,

What if anything have you learned thus far?

Looking for Answers

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Dear LFA,

I've learned that homemade peanut brittle is wonderful, that some people are trusting of strangers and others are not, that camping in the middle of nowhere is not terribly difficult, that people offer rides even when you're not asking, that the importance of meaningful human contact is impossible to overvalue, that store purchases are decent icebreakers, that no matter how you act some people will always judge you on your looks, that walking on a paved road really hurts after a while, that walking with a foot injury hurts even more, that East Texas is beautiful, that Couchsurfing.org is a great idea, that my family and friends are rooting for me, that Texas newspapers are going to be around for a long time, that DeKalb is pronounced DEE-CAB, that it's fun to visit with friends of my parents when my parents aren't around, that a smile is just about the best thing to receive after a long day, that mountain lions aren't real fun to hear close at night, that I harbor within me the same prejudices I experience, and that God has presented himself everywhere I have traveled. There's probably more, but that'll do.

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Texas Bricks, Longview, Harrison County, Day 62

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Dear Perimeter Hiker,

What are you going to do during the Panhandle winter?

Getting Cold Just Thinking About It

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Dear GCJTAI,

I have a few options. I can attempt to go through it as long as the weather holds up decently. This is difficult as the blue northers usually sweep in without much warning. With good boots and a good sleeping bag, I'm confident the hiking would be manageable.

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However, I'm not thrilled with the idea of hiking wet or - worst case scenario - in a white out. If I feel like I need to bail for a few weeks or more, I have two non-hiking options: 1) get a job up north or 2) volunteer at a park in the region. I intend to look into these options during the Thanksgiving break.

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Stay tuned! More updates on the way...

In the News...

I am currently with an aunt and uncle in Arlington, Texas. I had it in my mind to walk across Fannin County in a day, but I failed miserably. I hiked about 25 miles all told from just over the county line near Direct to just under Ivanhoe. I was limping in spite of my two hiking sticks and simply couldn't get to Bonham to beat my aunt and uncle's five o'clock pick-up. My body hurt and badly, so I wasn't all that sad to fall short.

As you probably already know, I passed through Paris a handful of days ago. Thank you to Brandon who sent me a quick link to the Texas Eiffel Tower (it saved me a couple of minutes which, because of the stringent library policies, made a difference). The Paris News did a nice piece on the trek and me. Click here to see the picture and the article. Thank you to both the photographer (Sam Craft) and reporter (Krista Goerte) who were nice and friendly on top of being good at their jobs.

Here too is an article I wrote, published in the Fairfield Recorder. There was a photo that went with the article, but I'm unsure of where it is on their site. Click here for the article.

That's all for the moment.

Until tomorrow...

Dear Perimeter Hiker

It's time for another session of "Dear Perimeter Hiker"! Let's just jump right in, shall we?
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Dear Perimeter Hiker,

You tweeted that your shoes and socks have holes in them. Well, what does a worn out shoe from the Texas Perimeter Hike look like?

I like my Shoes New

Dear ILMSN,

If you regard the above picture, you'll see a small tear in the shoe toward the middle right of the photo. I noticed this when I felt a tingling in my foot. Looking down, I could see my pinky toe through both shoe and sock! Upon further inspection of my footwear and a quick calculation of the miles walked in them (over 400 miles... I got them after Palacios and then walked a lot of the beaches barefoot), I realize that it's time to retire said shoes. Hard to say what I'll replace them with though. More on that later.
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Dear Perimeter Hiker,

I notice your mileage is way down. How's that toe treating you?

Stay off the Foot

Dear SOTF,

After 50 plus miles, I've come to the conclusion that I fractured my toe as opposed to breaking it. It hurt badly the first couple of days out of Texarkana, but it's gotten much better since. I use two poles and do my best to keep the weight off of my left foot. In the picture above, I have used the "buddy system" of toe healing. Underneath the bandage is a slightly swollen and slightly bruised toe. It feels better but still has a ways to go.

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Dear Perimeter Hiker,

You haven't posted a picture of yourself anywhere. What do you look like these days?

Looks Aren't Everything

Dear LAE,

The weather has changed and with it any chance for looking even remotely like everyone else. The straw hat has been replaced with the stereotypical homeless head-hugger. The normally awesome Patagonia polypro has many holes in it, but since it does the job, I'm hesitant to invest in a new one. I'm wearing longjohns under my shorts now that the cold has come in (low 40s today in Paris, TX), and I imagine even these looks will change in the weeks to come.

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Dear Perimeter Hiker,

What are you doing for the holidays? Are you plunging ahead into the Panhandle or what?

Watching Your Progress

Dear WYP,

I am getting off the edge of Texas! I am spending both Thanksgiving and Christmas with family and friends. I just hope I don't come back to an arctic Texas.

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Until next time, wanderers...

Good, Not Good

About a week or two ago, I was hiking along while chatting with a high school friend named Jacob Garcia. He was asking me various questions about the hike, what I was doing at that moment, what I'd be doing in the near future. There seemed to be no end to the questioning.

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Suddenly, I felt a distinct bodily urge and told Garcia that I had to go into the woods. Under normal city circumstances, this is when most people cut out. Not Garcia. "This is what I'm talking about," he said, "This is what people want to know about." I was unaware that there was any complexity to the process of "doing the business" outdoors, but I figured that if Garcia didn't know, there might be other Aggies out there who could benefit from a quick education about finding toilet paper substitutes out in the wilds of the Texas highway system.

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We at the University of Texas are well schooled in outdoor waste disposal, as the need occasionally arises on A&M campuses across the state. While I do not recall the specifics, nor do I wish to confuse the issue for any potential Aggie readers, I present to you "Good, Not Good," a quick-and-easy guide that should be comparable in academic level to that of any graduate school material you might encounter in the A&M university system.

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(Leave No Trace principles encourage backcountry hikers to dig a hole at least 6" in depth for your waste. You can do this with a stick, stone, or store-bought shovel. Deposit your waste, along with any subsequent wiping material, and cover it all up.

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When going potty on A&M campuses, most UT students reference the alternative Leave A Big Fat Hairy Trace principles. In this case, Leave No Trace rules may not be applicable.)

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A quick note: any material may be used to wipe off excess excrement. In an emergency, please feel free to use anything. However, if you are given the choice, some are better than others, as shown below.

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Without further ado, I give you "Good, Not Good." Enjoy.

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GOOD.

Large and pliable, this leaf will serve your basic needs.

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NOT GOOD.

More is not necessarily merrier.

In order to make a good square, you will have to use your thumb.

At the crucial moment, however, you will want to retract said thumb.

After that, it's between you and God.

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GOOD.

Different shape, same wonderful wiping potential.

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NOT GOOD.

Pine needles may have sap on them.

Unless you want to trade one sticky substance for another,

I suggest you find something else.

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GOOD.

Don't be fooled by the color.

If it's still on tree, it still wipes for me.

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NOT GOOD.

A bird's nest ushers stuff into this world,

so why can't it take it away?

Chances are high that after using this you'll walk away

with little bits of Mother Nature a tad too close to home.

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GOOD.

Skinny leaves like this can still be folded into a workable square.

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NOT GOOD.

Recycling is a wonderful thing,

but this discarded scrap of aluminum can

is best left by the side of the road.

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GOOD.

A dark red leaf is still a good wiper.

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NOT GOOD.

A piece of tire might leave skid marks on you.

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GOOD.

Not my first choice, pine cones

are often a top pick on many NOLS courses.

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NOT GOOD.

Neither a fork nor a spoon,

this used spork probably wouldn't be a good idea

even if it were perfectly clean.

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And this concludes "Good, Not Good." I hope you learned something.

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Until next time, wipers...

The Wickiup

One of things I learned out on the BOSS survival course was how to build a wickiup (I'm finally adopting the correct spelling after writing "wikkiup" for several tweets.). A wickiup, or wigwam, is a temporary shelter used by Native Americans. If made correctly, a traveler can keep warm and dry even in low temperatures or rainy weather.

All of my wickiups took about 90 minutes to construct. They're surprisingly easy to make, though a little time consuming.

First, a rough structure is made out of branches. (In each of the wickiups below, I used a different overall structure.) The central branches must be strong enough to support a lot of weight, as the weight of the surrounding duff adds up. Second, dry duff (leaves and pine needles) is collected in bunches and laid around the structure much like shingles on a roof. Placed from bottom to top, the duff fills in the gaps and makes a warm protective cover. The thickness of this duff determines how warm the shelter will be, and more can be added to suit the situation.

Two notes: The structure we built in BOSS had another step. We added large pieces of pine bark between the structure and the duff for added support and protection against the elements. The bark also keeps duff from getting knocked down into your sleep area (and all over you and your stuff!). I didn't have any bark or any other substitute, so I just had to deal.

I also didn't put up a "door" to complete the insulation. A simple piece of fabric would have sufficed, but I preferred a little cool air circulating around my space.

. . .1st Wickiup from Behind, Hallsville, TX
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My first wickiup (shown above and below) was made with a long spine, much like the roof of a house. I placed long sticks on either side until I felt confident I could stack leaves and needles on top of it.
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1st Wickiup from Front, Hallsville, TX
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2nd Wickiup from Afar, Northeast of Marshall, TX
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My second wickiup (shown above and below) was made over a depression in the earth. Instead of a central spine, I laid branches horizontally over the depression until I felt they were thick enough to support the weight of the duff. Instead of layering the duff like shingles, I just threw it on top. The room I had in this one was the smallest of the three wickiups.
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2nd Wickiup from Front, Northeast of Marshall, TX
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3rd Wickiup from Side, Caddo Lake State Park, TX
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My third wickiup (shown above and below) was the only freestanding one I made. The structure was basically like an elongated teepee with many smaller branches shoved in between the gaping holes. Again, I layered the duff, and it worked out well.
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3rd Wickiup from Front, Caddo Lake State Park
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These structures were far from necessary, as the really cold weather is to come. But I had fun making them, and the practice was good. I know this experience will help me on a trip in the future. If I had known it a decade ago, I wouldn't have suffered with my cousin Benji who likes to snore all through the night. Such is life.

Until next time, adventurers...

In the News...

Well, while I'm trying to figure out exactly how my current library computer is failing to allow me to upload photos, I'll post a link to the Texarkana Gazette about my recent couchsurfing experience with Michael Boyd of Texarkana. The link is posted below:

Click here for the article and photo!

Until next time...

In the News...

As many of you know, I am writing a self-syndicated column for newspapers around the state of Texas. I'm always looking for a way to let people experience what I'm going through, and the columns serve this purpose.

Here are a couple of recent columns that came out. I don't enjoy having my work tampered with, and unfortunately, that's exactly what happened with one of the following columns. Technically, one of the following was edited, much to my dismay. Flow is very important to me, the idea that one sentence or paragraph rolls smoothly into the next, and if my work has to change, I prefer to make those changes with the flow in mind. Oh well.

I'll stop editorializing. Enjoy the articles.

For the article in the Corpus Christi Caller-Times, click here. It is about the Aransas National Wildlife Refuge.

For the article in the Victoria Advocate, click here. It's about my encounter in Seadrift, Texas.

Until next we cross paths...

Dear Perimeter Hiker

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. . . . .
Dear Perimeter Hiker,

Has the BOSS survival course training helped you on this trip?

-Was It Worth It?

Dear WIWI,

When I participated in my survival course, I had originally envisioned it helping me in the western part of the state where the topography and climate would be more similar to that of Utah’s. I didn’t know if any of the knowledge would apply in my day-to-day living.

There are two answers to this question:

As per direct knowledge, the answer would have to be an excruciatingly painful ‘no.’ Sure, I use a knot or two that I learned in my survival course when setting up my tarp, but I don’t make fire from scratch, haven’t caught a fish with my bare hands, don’t make my own rope, haven’t tried trapping wild animals with a figure four, don’t eat out of a wooden burn bowl, and haven’t killed and processed a large animal.

However, there is a certain quality to the course which falls under the realm of experience. In this regard, the course has done me a great deal of good. I’m confident in ways I don’t think I was before. I’m more analytical when it comes to making decisions about where to sleep and how to sleep. It’s impossible to quantify this aspect of the experience. For example, if I have no supply of food or water and am two full days from either and my feet hurt and the weather is against me, I’ll still remain upbeat. It’s hard to imagine having that kind of confidence prior to the survival course.
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Dear Perimeter Hiker,

What are you eating out there?

-Get In My Belly

Dear GIMB,

I carry snacks and basically just skimp on my meals. I’m passing through so many communities that I’m not worried about having tons of food or a truly balanced diet. Put another way, I’m almost always a day or two away from a nice sit-down restaurant. So why carry food on my back?

When I happen to be on a multi-day stretch toward civilization, I eat peanut butter, raisins, and bread. Right now, I’ve switched out the peanut butter for some Nutella. It’s been decent, but I really think the chunky peanut butter is where it’s at.
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. . . . .
Dear Perimeter Hiker,

What tech & navigation gear do you have with you? What kind of phone, GPS, maps, etc?

-Geeked Out On Technology

Dear GOOT,

I am not using much in the way of navigation gear. I have a standard road map and a standard phone. I do not use GPS or specialized maps. I originally carried a compass with me but cut it out of my pack due to non-use.

I have heard of people using the SPOT device to track their movements on various trips. I considered this, even so far as asking SPOT to sponsor me, but ultimately decided against it. Furthermore, walking alone doesn’t lend itself to bulking up on expensive equipment.

The one area that I might re-evaluate is my map carrying. I walked on the most beautiful side road a few days ago. Trees stood right by the road (instead of being cut back), parts of the road were flooded (which I enjoyed since it wasn’t raining), dogs ran up on me, people waved. I wouldn’t have known about the side road had my host not had a county map.
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Until next time, hikers…

Books on the Texas Perimeter

I typically hike with a book and catch a few pages both on the road and curled up in my bag at the end of the day. Below are a few of the books that I bothered to lug with me, books that broke my back but helped remind me of the wonder of it all. Enjoy.

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Thalia, Texas is the fictional setting for The Last Picture Show by Larry McMurtry. It's a one-stop-light town where old habits die hard and time seems like it will stretch for an eternity. The focal point of the novel centers around the lives of its high school kids, for in their hands rests the power to break the cycle of small town existence. As the book unravels, you find out the sad and uneventful reality about its adults... that they have been trying to break the same cycle for their entire lives. A well-written and enjoyable book.
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The cover doesn't say a whole heck of a lot, but within the pages of Tales of Old-Time Texas, J.Frank Dobie (of Dobie Center fame in Austin) spins dozens of yarns he heard over the years about the Lone Star state. The stories are mostly from the 19th century and highlight the people, the animals, the weather, and tales of lost Texas treasure. My favorite chapters cover the outlaw Sam Bass, honeybees in Texas, and the Woman of the Navidad. The tales are decidedly lighthearted, but they capture the essence of an era all but lost to the passing of time. A delightful and compelling read.
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Author and sports fan H.G. Bissinger wanted in the late 80s to visit an American football stronghold, some place where the community came together and lived for the thrill of the sport. He found such a place in Odessa, TX, where each week would pull in 15,000 to 20,000 fans on Friday night. During th 1988 season, Bissinger lived in Odessa, conducted hundreds of interviews, went to every game, followed the players on the field, at school, and at home, and ultimately produced Friday Night Lights, a work of such profound journalistic depth that I had trouble not rereading the entire thing a second time. Many issues come into play, such as the intensity of the game, the sincerity of the major players and coaches, the fanaticism of the town. However, the story becomes much more compelling when issues of racism, grade tampering, and community harassment are woven into the story, glaring and as bright as those Friday night lights. A fantastic piece of non-fiction and a must-read.
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Until we meet again...